Around Taiwan in Three and a Bit Days

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Taitung (Jinluen)

At this stage there are still a number of choices of where to stay. We always prefer Mr. Chou's mountain chalets. They have three in all which can sleep four in each chalet. There are three hot spring pools in the open air and plenty of space for barbequing. There is an outdoor swimming pool as well as space for at least three cars. Do be certain to call ahead of arrival for booking though and to check the state of the road up to the mountain. You will need Mr. Chou to guide you up the mountain from Jinluen as the accommodation has no address and is hidden in the forest. The road from Jinluen was destroyed in the 2009 Marakot typhoon and is presently still under repair. This did cause a little trouble for our typical, low-slung family car and a passenger was needed to guide the car over small rocks and stones. Mr. Chou's family do offer limited dinner and breakfast choices if needed. We advise to travel a few kilometres beyond Jinluen to Taimali to pick up barbecuing food and charcoal at the small traditional market there, which is beside the police station. Then we double back and check in. There is an internet cafe located close to the traditional 'wet market' and mini-mart, on the other side of the street.

There is much wildlife to see up at Mr. Chou's mountain, including butterflies, lizards, bats etc. During the night you will likely also hear the sound of squirrels which often like to scare guests by dropping things onto the wooden chalet's roof. If you prefer to not hear the squirrels, you might check into one of the concrete chalets instead.

As well as a host to many travellers and hot spring enthusiasts, Mr. Chou is also a farmer and has a number of custard apple (sugar apple) fields. You might take advantage and ask him about trying one of Taitung's most famous offerings in the form of this incredibly sweet and soft fruit.

Custard apple (sugar apple) 釋迦 shì jiā

Some things to consider taking to Mr. Chou's: charcoal, a sharp knife, barbecuing skewers and barbecuing, sauce, meat, veg, tinfoil, paper plates and cups, drinks, towels, swimming attire and insect repellent.

It is actually a few short kilometres up Jinjhen Mountain from Taimali where the second recommended lodgings are located at 'Fairyland Resort', in case a spectacular valley view is preferred over the hot springs and swimming pool. Barbecuing may not be an option here, but at least there is a very sufficient restaurant and coffee lounge. Accommodation ranges from double rooms to a larger family room and even small romantic caravans with sunken tubs outside which overlook the valley below.

Regardless of which place you choose to stay, we recommend both should be visited to enjoy both the hot springs at Mr. Chou's and the mountain view and flowers as well as great coffee up at Jinjhen Mountain.

To get to Jinjhen Mountain from Jinluen, simply follow Road-9 (North) for a few kilometres from Jinluen until Taimali and then turn off onto Taimali Street. Go down the street until you see a left turn sign to Jinjhen Mountain, located beside the petrol station. Be aware that the road up Jinjhen Mountain, although tarmac and reasonably smooth, offers many tight turns, is narrow in places and can be very dangerous when passing. It also has a lethal drop-off to the side. It can suffer from thick fog which although romantic, also severely obscures vision, so remember to always keep the vehicle's lights on and use the vehicle's horn from time to time to warn other road users of your whereabouts. Trucks often use this road and require plenty of notice in order to safely avoid other traffic and prepare to pass.

On To Hualien

(About three hours of driving to next stop)

Leaving the base of Jinjhen Mountain, we stick to Road-9 until we are later offered a turn-off onto Road-11, signposted Taitung.

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Road-11 hugs the coastline and continues to offer stunning coastal views as well as a glimpse of some of the better kept houses and gardens on the East coast. On Road-11 at Shiatping there is a rest stop and some small and spooky bat caves to check out.

Road-11 eventually links back up with Road-9 in Hualien, where we take a right turn. This road is also called ZhongZheng Rd. and is the main road through Hualien City.

Right Turn onto Road-9 (ZhongZheng Rd.)

At the MacDonald's on ZhongZhen Rd. we take a left turn and park up for the night. We are staying at the Quality Inn, a few doors down. The hotel will cover the cost of parking outside as long as you hand in the parking bill/ticket before you drive off in the morning.

Locate the large MacDonald's and make a left turn

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The Quality Inn offers breakfast only, but has free internet access. There are plenty of places to eat and drink close by.

To Taroko

In the morning, we get up bright and early, have our hotel breakfast and then shoot straight off to Taroko Gorge. We continue on Road-9 until we turn off onto Road-8 at which point the Gorge becomes clearly visible. Road-8 is practically the only major route in and out of the gorge. A glorious variety of scenery is again on offer here with some of the most stunning views of blue marble rock faces, turquoise water, giant boulders the size of houses, overhanging cliffs and picturesque waterfalls. Taroko Gorge is probably the most famous natural sight of Taiwan and never disappoints. For those that wish to stretch their legs, there are plenty of walking routes and paths around here as well as unlimited photo opportunities, so do not forget to charge your camera!

If you are planning to extend your trip to Hualien and aren't following this "Three and a Bit Day" trip then we advise you also ask the locals or at the hotels in Hualien for advice on the whale watching. From time to time there are opportunities to hire fishing boats and go out to see some of the sea's wildlife. Local fishermen are often the most knowledgeable as to whether there is anything to spot during your visit.

Exiting Taroko and Hualien

(Around four hours of driving to Taipei in light conditions)

If you're driving at this point, then you will need to save quite a bit of energy if you aren't stopping off and visiting beautiful Elan county (Check out Taiping Mountain) on the way North. The trip from Hualien back to Taipei is the most tiring of this trip and requires a lot of concentration. Road-9 becomes very winding and will again severely test the stomachs of any dizzy car passenger. This is also where we stress once again the dangers of driving the East Coast and mountain roads during heavy rains and wind. There are plenty of rock falls and mud-slides during these times and travellers should take caution and shelter until the weather eases. Rock falls and mud slides don't just cause paint chips water damage and scratches to cars, but at worst will destroy roads, bury cars, or push them off the road. The risk of fatality in this region is high during medium and extreme weather conditions. Do check the weather forecast before heading off.

Leave Taroko Gorge exactly the same way as you came in on Road-8 and take a left at the bridge, signposted 'Elan'

Turn Left over the Bridge

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Continue on Road-9 all the way to SuOu at which point Road-9 converges with Road-2 and continues a short distance before you must take a right turn onto Road-2 (North)

Right Turn to Road-2 North

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Immediately after turning right to Road-2 North, you must make the next left turn which is signposted and leads you onto Highway-5

Left Turn towards Highway-5

A kilometre or so after exiting the first tunnel you come to after this turn, you will see another signposted right turn to complete your route to Highway-5. Highway-5 travels through a system of tunnels and there are a few speed cameras to keep vehicles orderly and in-line. Don't hold your breath though as this is one of the longest tunnelling systems in the world. You will eventually exit the mountain range at which point Highway-5 splits off into either Highway-3 South or Highway-3 North. If travelling back to Hsindian, then follow the route South.

This will bring you to the end of the Taiwan Three and a Bit Day tour.

We at Auto Checkers wish you a safe and pleasant journey and hope you enjoy Taiwan.

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